Marusya Fall 2012 Collection

Marusya, the couture eveningwear and fur collection by Russian designer Marina Ilchenko, debuted last night at the posh Peninsula Hotel.

The presentation highlighted the designer’s glamorous fur and exotic skins collection handmade by Ilechenko and Russian artisans from mink, fox, chinchilla, swakara, crocodile, and lizard. This season, Ilchenko also used Sable – the world’s finest pelt. The luxurious materials created coats, vests, capes and a dress.

We adored the shoes by United Nude.

The combination of the traditional and modern ideas paved way to the inspiration of Helmut Newton’s work. Marina reinterprets and translate these photographs to come up with a collection full of conviction, power, and temptation. The collection ranges in price from $12,000 to $25,000.

More pictures for your viewing pleasure (Courtesy of John Alston Jr)

Sneak Peek: Ainsley Fall 2012 Collection

It’s almost that time of year again…New York Fashion Week! Ainsley NY will be showing on Saturday February 11th at Exit Art. Read more

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Announces Fall 2012 Preliminary Lineup

Hot off the presses! Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week announced today the preliminary schedule for the Fall 2012 Collections, taking place February 9 to 16, 2012 at Lincoln Center’s Damrosch Park. The lineup of designers for the event will bring the fashion industry’s elite to Lincoln Center for the fourth season, as fashion fans will brave the winter cold outside to catch a glimpse of their favorite editors, designers, celebrities, stylists and models attending the by-invitation-only shows. Read more

Rachel Zoe Will Debut Two New Lines During Fashion Week

“I can’t say what they are yet. I’d have to kill you if I told you. I’m on my constant mission to create a lifestyle brand,” she continues. “I want everything to be Rachel Zoe, head to toe.”

As Zoe said, it’s top secret so we will have to wait and see. Video below…

We’ve already seen her amazing Ready-to-Wear collection. So what could be next?

Costello Tagliapietra Spring/Summer 2012

Of all the flannel and suspenders wearing fashion designers, the dynamic duo of Costello Tagliapietra is my favorite.  Their approach to design differs from season to season but grace elegance and ease are a constant factor.   Read more

Fashion for Dummies: Argentine Designers Spring/Summer 2012 Collections

“Do you think we’re going the right direction?”  My journalist companion Emily Suarez glares at me in disbelief like she did Lindsey Lohan when the woman drunkenly freaked out at our Editor-In-Chief for taking a photo of her.

“Relax!  I see the tower soaring above the trees in front of us.”  My first time covering Paris Fashion week and I conveniently had the chance to visit the Eiffel Tower and see the Argentine Designers show in one shot.  That is, if we make it to the show in time.  We arrive underneath La Tour, locate the check-in area, and are relieved to find that we are not too late.

We shoot to the entrance and are directed around the 150-so people in queue through a sectioned off opening.  Then we are regrouped with the tourists to be funneled into the single elevator.  Some members of an American tour group notice our special access and audibly comment, “Hey, they’re jumping the line.”  Yep!  We have business.

While we make our way to the lift, a guy from the same group actually attempts to let us pass explaining that the rest of the tour was still behind.  However, another sir, a senior citizen with a Texan accent, was appalled.

“No, we’ve waited here an hour and half.  They gotta wait just like everybody else!”

“We have some place to be,” Emily responded.  Again looks she shot Lohan come to mind.

“Well so do we!” The man retorted and started trembling.  He reached into his pocket, shook out some prescription pills, and jammed them down his throat.  Damn.

The next elevator finally arrives and fortunately we make it to the show without getting mauled by our compatriots.

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The show consisted of Argentine brands Claudio Cosano, Cardon, Di Domenico, Gabriel Lage, Iaia Cano, Jorge Ibanez, and Laurencio Adot.  The starkest contrast between the Argentine Designers from the previous Paris Fashion Week exhibitions can be summarized by the unabashed presence of the straight male’s perspective.  This was true in both the designs and presentation.    Not to say an architectural bondage-inspired dresses isn’t hot, but the Argentines give sex in a way the average man understands.  Yes, this includes the t-shirt and khaki clad Americans by the elevator.  The dresses don’t necessarily show excessive skin, but they hug the body and emphasize the hourglass shape.  A gown that features the shoulders, is fitted from the bust to either the butt or knee, and flares below to the ground is a typical silhouette.

Instead of the models looking like pissed-off alien zombies, they have curves, a healthy glow, and some even smile.  They flirt with their eyes and bodies rather than acting like a coat hanger.  One model in a kimono style chiffon yellow tunic seduces the audience with an Arabian catwalk.  The hairstyles are either pulled back in nuptial updos or simply down.  The makeup essentially is mainstream “club girl”: foundation, blushed apples, and smoky eyes.   Again, there’s nothing too weird, just pretty for our dude.

As much as there are undertones of judgment in my voice, the type of sexuality these dresses bring is not only what the average man wants but what the average women wants.  By having models that demonstrate how confident and happy they feel in the gown, they sell the product.  Besides, after show after show of Parisian, avant garde, minimal designs, watching one that is womanly, embellished, and accessible is refreshing.  The show isn’t so serious.  The music makes you want to dance.

Nonetheless, the attention to detail and construction is no joke. Various uses of painstaking beading, embroidered lace, and artfully placed ruffles that accentuated the female figure made each dress special.  These details must have taken weeks and a few seamstresses’ eyesight to execute.  Impressively, an Argentine fashionista actually complained that the dresses showcased didn’t do the country justice explaining that their designs are often even more meticulous with corseted construction and further embellishment.

Finally, whether the woman is coming or going, the way the chiffons, fringe, and ruffles move with the body is mesmerizing [see video].  An example of this is a suggestively nude colored gown of Gabriel Lage that’s covered in delicate lines of sequence.  It has a neckline chiffon ruffle that drapes itself over the left arm and silver satin fringe decorating the bottom that flutters with every twist of the hip.  Another is a black and white dress by Claudio Cosano whose energy has the audience begging the model to walk the runway twice.  The body of the dress is made of black taffeta with a side slit that nearly exposes the hip.  The feature that requires the encore is the hypnotic black and white wide striped train that begins gathered above the rear and flares to the floor where it drags two feet.

Ironically, as disproportionate the anger from the American tourist was, it reveals the tension and misunderstanding between Fashion and everyday people.  Albeit, gowns and formal wear is a limited market, maybe the Parisians and Americans could take note of the Argentine marketing approach, leave some of the elitism, and consider the lay people.

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